Preparing the Jeans for Hemming
The most important step in ensuring that your hemmed jeans will look professional and last long is preparing them properly. This step requires patience and attention to detail, but it will pay off in the end. Here’s a detailed guide to preparing your jeans for hemming:
1. Determine the Length of the Hem
This step is crucial to ensure that the hem will be the perfect length for your desired look.
#### Measuring the Length
– Wear the jeans with the shoes you plan to wear with them.
– Stand against a wall or a flat surface.
– Measure the desired length from the floor to the desired hemline.
– If you want the jeans to have a slight break, measure to the top of the shoe.
– If you want the jeans to be cropped, measure to the desired length above the ankle.
#### Marking the Length
– Use a fabric pen or chalk to mark the desired hemline on the inside of both legs.
– Make sure the marks are level and symmetrical.
– Check the marks carefully before proceeding to the next step.
2. Turn Up the Hem
Now that you have determined the length of the hem, it’s time to turn it up.
– Fold the jeans along the marked hemline, with the right sides together.
– Press the fold firmly with an iron to create a crease.
– Fold the hem up again by about 1-2 inches, depending on the desired width of the hem.
– Press the fold again to create another crease.
3. Pin the Hem
Pinning the hem securely will help keep it in place while you sew.
– Use straight pins to pin the hem along the folded edge, about 1/4 inch from the edge.
– Make sure the pins are perpendicular to the hemline.
– Pin the hem all the way around both legs.
– Double-check the pins to ensure they are secure and the hem is even.
Measuring and Marking the Hem
Determining the Desired Hem Length
Start by putting on the jeans and marking a spot on the hem where you want it to end. Use a measuring tape to measure the length of the jeans from the waist to the desired hemline. Record this measurement.
Folding and Pinning the Hem
Turn up the hem to the desired length, ensuring that it is folded evenly and parallel to the existing hem. Pin the folded hem in place along the inseam, starting at the crotch and working your way down the leg.
When pinning the hem, insert the pins perpendicular to the fabric at a downward angle. This will help keep the hem secure and prevent puckering during sewing.
Checking the Fit and Making Adjustments
Once the hem is pinned, take a few steps and check the fit. Ensure that the hem is a uniform length around the leg and that there are no creases or wrinkles. If adjustments are needed, remove the pins and make any necessary changes to the fold or pin placement.
Marking the Hemline
With the hem pinned in place, use a piece of tailor’s chalk or a disappearing fabric marker to mark the new hemline along the folded edge. This line will serve as a guide while sewing the hem.
Folding the Hem Twice
Step 3: Secure the Folded Hem with a Blind Stitch
A blind stitch is a type of stitch that is invisible on the right side of the fabric. This makes it an ideal stitch for hemming jeans, as it will not create a visible line of stitching. To sew a blind stitch, you will need a needle that is slightly smaller than the regular needle you use for sewing jeans. You will also need to use a fine thread that matches the color of the jeans.
Start by threading your needle and knotting the end of the thread. Bring the needle up through the fabric, about 1/4 inch from the edge of the folded hem. Stitch one stitch into the folded hem, then take another stitch about 1/4 inch further down the hem. Repeat this process, stitching into the folded hem and then taking another stitch outside of the hem. As you sew, keep the stitches small and even.
When you reach the end of the hem, turn the jeans right side out and press the hem to set the stitches.
Additional Tips for Sewing a Blind Stitch
* Use a sharp needle to prevent snagging the fabric.
* Hold the fabric taut while you sew to prevent the stitches from puckering.
* If you are having trouble seeing the stitches, you can use a magnifying glass to help you.
* Practice on a scrap piece of fabric before you start sewing the hem on your jeans.
| Tips for Sewing a Blind Stitch |
|---|
| Use a sharp needle to prevent snagging the fabric. |
| Hold the fabric taut while you sew to prevent the stitches from puckering. |
| If you are having trouble seeing the stitches, you can use a magnifying glass to help you. |
| Practice on a scrap piece of fabric before you start sewing the hem on your jeans. |
Ironing the Hem
Once you’ve folded and pinned the hem, it’s time to iron it. This step is important to ensure the hem is crisp and even.
To iron the hem, follow these steps:
1. Set your iron to the medium or low heat setting.
2. Place the hemmed jeans on an ironing board.
3. Start ironing at the bottom of the hem and work your way towards the top.
4. As you iron, use a pressing cloth or a piece of cotton fabric to protect the denim from direct heat. The pressing cloth will help to distribute the heat evenly and prevent the denim from scorching or burning. You can also use a tailor’s ham to give the hem a nice round shape. Place the hem over the ham and iron, moving the iron back and forth to create a smooth, even finish.
5. Continue ironing until the hem is completely dry and flat.
Tips:
- If you don’t have a pressing cloth, you can use a clean, damp tea towel.
- To prevent the hem from sticking to the iron, spray it lightly with water before ironing.
- If the hem is still wrinkled, you can steam it with a handheld steamer or by holding it over a boiling pot of water.
Sewing the Hem
Now it’s time to sew the hem of your jeans. You can do this by hand or with a sewing machine. If you’re sewing by hand, use a needle and thread that matches the color of your jeans. If you’re using a sewing machine, use a stitch that is appropriate for the fabric of your jeans.
1. Fold the hem up once
Fold the bottom edge of your jeans up by the desired amount. The width of the hem will depend on the style of jeans you want. For a standard hem, fold the edge up by about 1 inch (2.5 cm). For a wider hem, fold the edge up by 2 inches (5 cm) or more.
2. Press the hem
Once you’ve folded the hem up, press it with an iron. This will help to crease the fold and make it easier to sew.
3. Pin the hem
Pin the hem in place along the folded edge. Use pins that are sharp enough to pierce the fabric, but not so sharp that they damage it.
4. Sew the hem
Sew the hem in place using a needle and thread or a sewing machine. If you’re sewing by hand, use a small stitch that is close together. If you’re using a sewing machine, use a stitch that is appropriate for the fabric of your jeans.
5. Finishing the Hem
Once you have sewn the hem, there are a few optional steps you can take to finish it off. You can topstitch the hem to give it a more professional look. You can also serge the raw edge of the hem to prevent it from fraying. Or, you can simply leave the hem as it is.
Finishing the Edge of the Hem
Using a Pinking Shears
✂️ Trim off any excess fabric from the raw edge of the hem.
✂️ Hold the pinking shears perpendicular to the fabric.
✂️ Apply even pressure as you cut to create a serrated edge.
Using a Serger
🧵 Insert the fabric into the serger and adjust the settings.
🧵 Select a stitch type that will prevent fraying, such as a zigzag or overlock stitch.
🧵 Serge the raw edge of the hem to seal it and create a professional-looking finish.
Using a Binding Tape
✂️ Cut a piece of bias tape to the length of the hem.
🧷 Pin the binding tape to the raw edge of the hem, right sides together.
🧵 Stitch the binding tape in place using a narrow zigzag stitch or a blind stitch.
✂️ Fold the binding tape over the raw edge and press it down.
🧵 Stitch the binding tape in place along the folded edge.
| Machine | Stitch |
|---|---|
| Pinkers Shears | Zigzag or Overlock |
| Sger | Bias tape |
| Binding Tape | Zigzag or Blind Stitch |
Using a Hem Tape
✂️ Cut a piece of hem tape to the length of the hem.
💦 Moisten the adhesive side of the hem tape.
🧻 Fold the hem up to meet the edge of the hem tape.
✋ Press the hem tape in place, ensuring that it bonds securely.
Using a Fabric Glue
💧 Apply a thin line of fabric glue along the raw edge of the hem.
🧻 Fold the hem up to meet the glued edge.
✋ Press the hem in place until the glue dries.
Trimming the Excess Fabric
7. Take Small Snips of the Fold
Once you have the fold marked, begin trimming the excess fabric. Use sharp scissors and take small snips, about ¼ to ½ inch at a time. This will help prevent the fabric from fraying or tearing while you are sewing.
8. Trim Close to the Fold
As you trim, keep the scissors close to the fold to avoid cutting into it. This will ensure that you have a neat and even hem when you are finished.
9. Check the Length of the Hem
Before you begin sewing, check the length of the hem to make sure it is even. You can use a measuring tape or ruler to do this. If the hem is uneven, trim it until it is even.
10. Iron the Hem
Once you have trimmed the excess fabric, iron the hem to set the fold. This will make it easier to sew and will give your jeans a more polished look.
11. Use a Sewing Machine or Needle and Thread
To hem your jeans, you can either use a sewing machine or hand-stitch them. If you are using a sewing machine, follow the instructions in your machine’s manual to hem the jeans. If you are hand-stitching the jeans, use a needle and thread that matches the color of the jeans.
12. Finish the Hem
Once you have sewn the hem, finish it by folding the raw edge of the fabric under and sewing it down. This will prevent the fabric from fraying and will give your jeans a clean, finished look.
Hemming Flared Jeans
Hemming flared jeans requires special attention due to their wider leg opening. To ensure a flawless hem, follow these steps meticulously:
1. Turn Up the Hem
Turn up the hem to the desired length, ensuring that the fold is even all around. Pin the folded hem in place.
2. Measure and Mark the Hem
Measure and mark the hem allowance on the wrong side of the jeans. This allowance will vary depending on the desired hem width.
3. Fold and Press the Hem
Fold the hem along the marked line. Press the folded hem to create a crisp crease.
4. Pin the Hem
Pin the entire hem in place, spacing the pins evenly to ensure a secure hold.
5. Slip Stitch the Hem
Thread a needle with a strong thread that matches the jeans. Using a slip stitch, sew the hem in place from the right side of the jeans. Keep the stitches invisible from the front.
6. Remove the Pins
Once the hem is sewn, remove the pins.
7. Press the Hem
Press the hem thoroughly to set the stitches and create a smooth, professional-looking finish.
8. Finishing Touches
For a more polished look, consider the following additional steps:
| Step | Description |
|---|---|
| Topstitch the Hem | Stitch along the top edge of the hem using a topstitching stitch. This adds a decorative touch and reinforces the hem. |
| Reinforce the Hem | Sew a few rows of zigzag stitches along the inside of the hem to secure it and prevent fraying. |
Hemming Jeans with a Cuff
To hem jeans with a cuff, follow these steps:
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Trim the excess length. Pin the hem at the desired length, turning up a small cuff at the bottom. Fold the cuff up again and pin it to meet the first fold. Measure the distance from the top of the folded cuff to the bottom of the second fold. Cut off the excess fabric, leaving about 1/4 inch seam allowance.
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Fold and press the hem. Fold the hem up once along the first pin line, pressing it with an iron. Fold it up again along the second pin line, pressing it again.
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Hemming Jeans with a Machine. Stitch the hem in place by using a sewing machine, starting at the inseam and sewing around the leg to the other inseam. Use a straight stitch with a small stitch length.
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Hand hemming the jeans. If you don’t have a sewing machine, you can hem the jeans by hand. Use a needle and thread to sew a small whipstitch along the inside of the hem. Start at the inseam and sew around the leg to the other inseam.
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Remove the pins. Once the hem is sewn, remove the pins.
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Press the hem. Press the hem one last time to set the stitches and give the jeans a professional finish.
Variations:
There are several variations on the basic hem with cuff. One popular option is to create a “rolled” cuff instead of a folded one. To do this, simply roll up the bottom of the leg twice, rather than folding it. Then, stitch the cuff in place as usual.
Another variation is to add a decorative topstitch to the hem. To do this, simply stitch a second line of stitching along the top of the hem, about 1/4 inch from the edge. This will give the hem a more finished look.
Tips:
Here are a few tips for hemming jeans with a cuff:
Tip
Description
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Use a sharp needle and thread.
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This will help you create clean, even stitches.
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Take your time and be patient.
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Hemming jeans can be a bit time-consuming, so don’t rush the process
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If you’re not sure how to hem jeans, ask a friend or family member for help.
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They may be able to provide you with some guidance. When hand hemming jeans, it’s important to choose a thread that will be strong and durable. Look for a heavy-duty cotton or linen thread in a color that matches your jeans. 2. Use a Small NeedleA small needle will help you create a neat and even hem. Use a needle that is about 1 cm long and has a sharp point. 3. Fold the Hem OnceFold the raw edge of the jeans up by about 1 cm and press it with an iron. Then, fold it up again by another 1 cm and press it again. This will create a double-folded hem that is both strong and durable. 4. Sew the Hem in PlaceStart sewing the hem in place about 1 cm from the raw edge. Use a small stitch length and sew straight across the hem. When you reach the end of the hem, tie off the thread and trim it close to the fabric. 5. Press the HemOnce the hem is sewn in place, press it with an iron to set the stitches. This will help the hem to look neat and professional.
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